We Went Looking for Bears in Ketchikan… Here’s What Happened

Ketchikan was our first port on the Star Princess Alaska cruise, and we had one goal: see a bear. Our original bear excursion had been cancelled, so the day started with a phone call, a lot of optimism, and a very short window. We were docked by 6:00 a.m. and everyone had to be back on board by 2:30 p.m.

We did get two last minute seats on a tour out to Bear Island. Here is how it went: the eagles, the salmon hatchery, the empty bear caves, and the honest answer to whether we saw any bears.

An Early Morning and a Short Port Day

We were docked in Ketchikan at 6:00 in the morning and the ship was only in port until 3:30. A very loud announcement came into the cabins that morning telling everyone to be back on board by 2:30, so that was the real deadline.

Our bear excursion had been cancelled the day before, but the tour operator’s owner had told us to call her at 7:00 a.m. and she would try to get us in. The plan was simple: make the call, and if it did not work out, walk around town and visit Creek Street instead. It was a lovely morning and not cold at all, so we packed a light jacket just in case.

One surprise: this was not the docking spot we were used to. On past visits we have docked right in town near Creek Street, and this time we were not sure which way town even was until we got off the ship.

Two Seats at 8:45

We got off the ship, made the call, and she had two seats for us at 8:45. The tour runs about four hours, which with a 2:30 all aboard does not leave much spare time, so we set off to see a little of town first.

Ketchikan is full of fun references if you look for them. There is the Arctic Bar, home of the very happy bears, and right across the street the Asylum Bar with Johnny up in the window. In port with us were the Carnival Miracle and the Holland America Westerdam, and later in the day the Disney Magic joined us too.

We had planned to spend about an hour walking over to Creek Street, but the tour company called and said they were coming to pick us up right then. So we headed back to the visitor center in front of the Westerdam, and Creek Street had to wait for another trip.

Eagles Before We Even Left the Dock

While we waited for the boat out to Bear Island, there were bald eagles right in the trees beside the dock. We counted three in one tree at one point, and then two more playing right in front of us. If you have never seen eagles that close, Ketchikan delivers them almost casually.

The boat ride out to the island takes about an hour. We were the first ones there, got our little pink stickers, and then waited for a bus of other guests to join us. Out on the water we were hoping for whales, otters, or seals. Eagles, check. Seagulls, also check.

Bear Island and Its Logging History

The island is a preserve and a working salmon hatchery, and our guide was full of good information. Before the hatchery was here, this was a logging camp. Logging was big in this area until the 1980s, and once you know that you start seeing the evidence everywhere. Any roads you spot running up the hillsides from the boat are old logging roads, and the big swaths of bright green, smaller trees are old clear cuts. In a few more years, she told us, you will not be able to tell the difference.

She also pointed out some berries along the trail and warned us very clearly not to eat them. We were not about to test how many it takes to make you sick. They belong to the bears now.

We spotted an immature bald eagle sitting on a tree stump, too. Young eagles do not get their white heads and adult coloring until they are about three years old, so they look completely different from the ones you picture.

Inside the Salmon Hatchery

This was the part of the day that genuinely surprised us. The salmon swim in over a barrier net, up a fish ladder, and into long channels called raceways. You can watch them swimming up the ladder, fins popping out of the water just below the little waterfall, with eagles hanging around waiting for their chance.

From the raceways, the fish are crowded together, stunned, and brought into the spawning shed, separated into males and females. The team takes the eggs from the females and the milt from the males, mixes them together in a bucket, and the fertilized eggs go into the incubation building. After a few stages there, the young fish are taken out to brackish water and released. By about March, the whole process for the season is complete.

Standing there watching it happen was like a live biology lesson. It is a little unglamorous, very scientific, and absolutely fascinating.

The Bear Caves and the Trail

Then came the bear caves. There are little caves up the hillside where bears den, and every one we checked was empty. Tony declined to stick his head in to make sure. We called for Smokey, Teddy, Yogi, and Boo Boo, and nobody answered.

The trail itself is lovely, and there was plenty of evidence that bears use it, including some very large bear scat. That was as close as we got. The only bear we saw all day was a picture of one.

So, Did We See Any Bears?

No. And the sad part is that we heard the tour before ours saw bears, and so did the tour after ours. Ours was the only one that did not. Sad sauce, but that is wildlife, and no honest tour operator can promise it.

We still had a genuinely fun day. We saw a huge number of eagles, both juveniles and adults, watched salmon fight their way up a fish ladder, and learned how a hatchery actually works. It was also the hottest day of the trip so far. Tony wore long pants and a jacket, and it was close to 80 degrees. Dress in layers you can take off.

Back on the Star Princess

Right beside the gangway, a group of local kids were jumping off the pier into the water, and as far as we could tell nobody was stopping them. They finished their video and were gone by the time we sat down to eat.

It was 2:30 by then, and apart from one tiny bag of veggie snacks, it was the first thing we had eaten all day. For cruisers, that is ridiculous. Tony got the Princess signature burger from the Lido deck. It was not as good as the smash burger on Star of the Seas, and not Guy’s Burger good, but it was much better than any Lido deck burger we have had on Princess before. Christina agreed, although she admits she was very, very hungry.

Sail Away From Ketchikan

As we pulled out, the Disney Magic and the Westerdam were right behind us, and a seaplane took off directly in front of the Westerdam. One of these days Tony is going to get himself on one of those.

The breeze was warm, which felt strange after the freezing sea day before. Up at the Wake View Terrace you have the smoking side, the infinity pool in the middle, and a non smoking side. At the back of the Sanctuary Club there is water, coffee, and telescopes for viewing, and for the first time all week it was completely full. Normally it is pretty quiet back there.

A small itinerary note: we were not heading to Juneau next as we had expected. The next stop was a glacier day in Endicott Arm, then Juneau after that.

Sanctuary Club Cabanas: What They Cost

If you want to take the Sanctuary Club experience up a level, you can rent one of the cabanas. Pricing is dynamic, so check it on your own sailing, but when we asked it was roughly $400 to $500 for a full day for up to four people, about $100 extra for each additional person, or around $300 for a half day.

You get a couch with faux furs that genuinely keep you warm, loungers, a table, and an amazing view of Alaska. There are neighbors on either side, but curtains close off the sides and the front for complete privacy, although you would never want to block that ocean view. Each cabana has a TV with headsets, so you can watch a game without bothering anyone.

The cabanas were pretty booked up on the first day, probably because the World Cup was still on, but by Ketchikan they were all empty.

Dinner at Catch by Rudi

Dinner was at Catch by Rudi at 6:20. We started with a Blue Sky margarita and a Seaside Strawberry Smash, both very pretty and both with a little mint.

The meal was amazing. For dessert, Tony went for the cheese plate, which came with an oval bread, flowers, and honeycomb. Christina had the croquembouche, little cream puffs with Chantilly cream, and the server poured warm chocolate sauce over them at the table, with tiny chocolate fish swimming in the sauce. Very fancy and very delicious.

What’s Next: Endicott Arm and Juneau

The next morning was our glacier day in Endicott Arm, and Tony planned to wake up early to film the upper decks with glaciers and snow in the background. Wearing a jacket, this time, would be advisable.

For Juneau we had no fixed plans. Tony has been eyeing the gondola that goes up the mountain for the views, which he has never done. Christina will not be doing that. She will be at Jellyfish Donuts, and Tony will absolutely meet her there. That is one of the fun things about cruising: sometimes you wake up and just see where the day takes you.

Is a Ketchikan Bear Excursion Worth It?

Yes, with the right expectations. A bear sighting is never guaranteed, and we are proof of that. But a well run tour still gives you eagles, the hatchery, the history, and a beautiful boat ride, and on a short port day that is a much fuller morning than walking the shops. Book early, keep the operator’s phone number handy in case of cancellations, check your all aboard time against the tour length, and dress for warmer weather than you expect.